After weeks one and two of my Tango Voyage, I needed a break from dancing. Beginning of week three was actually moving day from my first host to my second. So after much packing, chatting, and getting situated, I needed to get out and have a nice dinner and relax. So with some good dancing the past few days, new friends, it was time to sit down and eat some steak!
So for a night off, and now residing in Palermo, I took to searching for a good place for dinner. My first choice was booked solid, the second choice was underwhelming, so I skipped out on it, and I found myself at this amazing place. Calden Del Soho. May have been my third choice, and was actually quite a bit more expensive than anywhere I was looking at, but the steak here is beyond anything I’ve had. No pictures, I was too busy enjoying the awesomeness that it was. You come for the steaks, the service wasn’t top notch but okay, what I expect in BA… but I’ll be here a few more times just for the steak. The price is worth it, but I’d suggest bringing someone to share as this was HUGE!
Onto the Tango!
Tango for these next few weeks was a little more spaced out, mainly because some nights I wanted to have a nice dinner and relax, another night I needed time to let me feet rest, another because I was out being a tourist and checking out the parks and such! For sure though, after the night of wonderful steak, I went out and had a blast!
Salon Canning is the place to be if you’re in Palermo in a Tuesday evening, as every Tuesday they have a band. I of course didn’t know this other than the venue being recommended to me thanks to my friend and teacher. I arrived a little late, but was able to see some of my new friends I met two evenings prior at El Beso.
This space was much more open, tango pictures along the walls, brighter, more spread out yet crowded, larger floor which is the right size for the amount of people the venue attracts. You’ll get a wide range of different people attending as well, Been here a few times and seen people just watching who don’t dance, others who are groups of travelers, groups of locals, people from all ages and the skill levels are a little better. The music here is a little hit and miss with the DJs, but the live music is the bread and butter of this place. The floor has some holes and cacks, but overall is quite nice too.
One thing that stands out here is the quality of the performances and teachers. The classes before hand are quite good (took the class the second week) and also offers a good variety for your skill level. Thus far it’s been the best class, not really the best at meeting people. There are teachers that rotate, but from what I’ve heard, it’s well worth it, whoever they have!
Revisiting & Finding the Locals
After a wonderful night of dancing at Salon Canning, I took another night of rest, then was invited out to El Beso again! This time it was a much earlier schedule with dancing, and was looking forward to dancing with a new friend! It was here I noticed something about el Beso which will be confirmed again later, everything feels tense… How or why, maybe it’s the fact the space feels so crowded and packed in, maybe it’s the LONG cortinas making things feel awkward, or the small dance floor, maybe even the level and age of the dancers. You wont notice anyone under the age of 30 here, and at 31, it wouldn’t surprise me if I was the youngest! Still was a good evening with a friend, some nice dances, and some slightly underwhelming empanadas.
Another day of rest from the Milongas, and was invited out to a flat where someone had a dance studio to get some actual practice time in! More nuevo music, actually practicing and working on things, made a fun evening, but reinforced, need to find a younger crowd! Luckily, this practice partner had a great suggestion for Saturday night!
Saturday night rolls around, and now I find myself at La Cachivacheria, which is a much smaller venue than anything thus far… well, about on par with El Tacuari. This Milonga is pretty much in a bar, that had things moved for dancing, so it also was more of a tile floor, maybe large cobblestones would be a better description. Was it the best floor, no, but it was quite smooth to dance on surprisingly. It was quite cramped the later the night went on.
The music here was the best I’ve heard from any DJ, no clue who it was, but the quality was good, and the momentum between everything was perfect. The live music later was also really nice and the performance felt fresh! The age range was also all under 40, I’d say 25-38, so I felt right at home. Some wine, some dancing, great music, good vibe. Might have been crowded, but it felt more relaxed and comfortable. If you don’t mind a loud crowded area where it feels like you’re surrounded by locals and groups of friends, this is really the place for you!
Taking another break on Sunday, I found myself a Salon Canning again on Monday and Tuesday! The rest of the week there was no dancing other than some practice time on Friday evening again, most of the days were actually spent being a tourist and spending time with the new friends, who most were heading back home, so we were going out to have dinner, chat, and visit.